Enjoying Romantic Paris....with the kids!

It is evident that Paris is for the beautiful, the luxe fashionista, the intellectual, the art connoisseur, the food and wine lover, the architecture enthusiast and the party-goer. But the million dollar question is if this city can also extend its welcome to an audience that is demanding, moody and hyper-- KIDS!!? 

Answer: Bien-sûr!! But of course!

                           Louvre's courtyard (window view from the museum)

La belle France loves them, kids! All the time I notice how the streets are filled with happy-looking children strolling with their parents particularly on Wednesdays, the official day granted for working mothers to spend time with their kiddoes either at home or in the office. When I was working, I remember how it pleased me during lunch break to see 4-year olds eating in the cafeteria beside their mothers or in the hallways, to cross a line of toddlers holding hands as they would walk towards the office playroom. Now that's what I call real benefits for families raising their kids  in France!

                               New Yorkers at the bazaar of Hotel de Ville


Although now, let's consider families on vacation in Paris. For parents who are wondering how to keep their kids satisfied and entertained without destroying their time in the city, do not fret! Below are some spots or activities that you could consider inserting in your itinerary.

                      almost itching to get out of her stroller at the Louvre

• If you notice that they are feeling stifled in their strollers after being in their best museum behavior for hours in the Louvre, get their blood circulation going and have them run freely in one of the many parks or gardens of Paris!  

                                      at the Pavillion of Place des Vosges


 I personally love the Luxembourg Gardens, with features like the center-piece fountain facing the Senate Palace, the Italian style Medici fountain and the garden's botanical diversity from orchids to stylized trees. It is definitely a kid-magnet park as it has an installed carousel and junior playground. Many times I have also come across performers sing and play music at their mini stage. 

       the  fountain of Jardin du Luxembourg encircled by happy sitters

              exterior of the Luxembourg Gardens and the Senate Palace

     a cocoon feel at the Fontaine Médicis with its cave and statue nymphs

                                             its manicured trees

And if the kids need their sugar fix, right by the entrance of Luxembourg (next to RER station, Luxembourg) there is an ice cream vendor.

                                         its gates of steel closing us out

             

• Take them to Bois de Vincennes where you have fun-filled activities like canoeing  on Lac Daumesnil ( I tried this with my husband it was an enjoyable workout!) , bird watching with the help of several poster boards illustrating the species found in the area, pony-riding through the oval path, merry-go-round-ing in the gardens and biking on fun paths. 

    for 2 persons/boat is 10,80 and 11,80 for 3-4 persons for an hour


Take note that boat and pony rentals(2,50 euros for one round) are offered all year round on Wednesdays and weekends (except for winter).

my jogging path around the lake      

                       I missed my nieces and nephews when I took this photo

                                           feeling at home in parc de Vincennes

• Regarding museums, I would suggest the Pompidou, Paris' museum of modern and contemporary art. Your children will be instantly drawn to its eye-catching tube facade and playful, trippy showcases at the exhibit halls. 

                                           the museum's industrial architecture

                                                        the modern facade


The Pompidou is perfect for children as it hosts educational workshops and events  related to music, visual arts, drawing and basic art appreciation.  Click on this link to check out the kids' activities which vary each month. You will also be able to buy your child's atelier tickets online.

            colorful art pieces at a place/mini fountain beside the museum

          CHILDREN WORKSHOP TICKETS
Wednesday Courses - 3 sessions (1 child): full rate €30 / concessions €24
Workshops for 6-10 years old (1 child + 1 adult): full price €10 / concessions €8
Family workshops: full price €10 / concessions €8
All tickets give access to the Children's gallery and the museum right after the visit.
Impromptu workshops: free / no reservation

           

And  for an enjoyable meal after some hours in the museum, head to the rooftop where you will find an outdoor/indoor stylish restaurant, George, with a magnificent view of the city!

            

                                   George's creamy rissotto lobster

                                                        truffle ravioli



This roof-top view of Paris is second best after what you see from Sacre Coeur in Montmarte. For table reservations, call  +33 (0)1 44 78 47 99.

       

                               heading up to the roof-top restaurant via escalator 

                                                 George on a sunny day 

• Another educational activity would be a visit to the Museum of Natural History which I   would love to check out soon.
  

•  For nontraditional modes of transport , consider L'Open Tour with its open top deck buses for an outdoor ride to see Paris' important monuments and sites. Also, Batobus will get get the children excited as they get to hop-on and hop-off the boats along the Seine river from one important site to another. You can check my previous entry to get more details on L'Open Tour and Batobus. 

In terms of practicality, the most kid-friendly way to get around would be the bus. First, the bus lowers for easy lifting of strollers and more important is its reserved space for the parents and their kids in the strollers. 

                                                      Bateau Parisien restaurant                         

• An idea I would propose for a different family dining experience, is the lunch cruise along the Seine river. Yes, call it cliche but it is seriously a worthy event! I did it with my parents and we were very pleased (and tipsy) with the service of Bateau Parisien . 

posing against the boat's glass canopy--very camera friendly

taking a pause from his meal for a shot

The cruise runs from 12:45 to 2:30 and within that period expect a great view of the Notre Dame, Tour Eiffel etc.. that is, from the river's perspective; and the quality of the food and wine is surprisingly good considering its 'touristic' value. Depending on where your table is located, cost per person is either 53,  63  or 73 euros.

If restaurants seem too stressful for you and the toddlers, there is always the grocery/ hypermarche--found in almost every other street-- like Monoprix. It has enough to satiate your appetites and simultaneously gives you a chance to re-load with some bare necessities like diapers, milk etc... There are fresh sandwiches, pastas, salads and pastries that are inexpensive and a solution to emergency feeding of your children.

•  For good ol' ice cream to reward your kids with, you must take them to either of these 2 places. Berthillon boasts of healthy ice cream without preservatives/stabilizers and is extra enjoyable while watching some performers show-off their talent on the bridge of Île Saint-Louis.

                                       musicians performing on the bridges of Paris

Another yummy place is Italy's finest gelateria, GROM  which uses all bio products!My   husband--a non ice cream fan--and I couldn't  stop eating it everyday in Florence thinking we had to relish every opportunity! And all of a sudden, bang, we discover 2 branches here in Paris!  Must-try parfums: vanilla, pistachio, strawberry sorbet, melon sorbet

       

         Boulevard Beaumarchais, 111 - 75003  (12pm-7pm)

         Rue de Seine, 81 - 75006 tel: 01 404 69 260 (12pm-12am)

                                  GROM's vanilla cream and strawberry sorbet

I actually got inspired to write this entry for a good friend who asked for some help concerning her dining itinerary in Paris. Important factor of course, was the presence of her 3-year old son and 18th-month old daughter (obviously I got side-tracked with the insertion of activities).

To end, I , as a non-parent, wish that these basic suggestions will be useful to parents who will one day,  also venture to the city of Light with their hyper, moody, and lovable monsters.

           the miracle worker, frites, solving all kiddie dining tantrums

Useful Tips:

• If your kid tells you that nature has called, go to the nearest brasserie, order a drink then head straight to the toilets usually located one floor below ground level. Take note that they rarely have areas for diaper-changing. No need to wonder about the ever-so abundant toilet paper and liquid soap for cleaning.
• There are also capsule-like single public toilets on main avenues which automatically clean up the entire surface with a water shower after the door is shut.
  

Tourist Tips for a Parisien "Virgin"

Being in Paris for the first time can be overwhelming. The language barrier and the city's golden treasures could blind a tourist into taking costly 'dead ends' that only wastes one's time, money and patience. This entry hopes to guide first-timers away from expected tourist traps and as much as possible, give them a taste of  Parisien living without having to spend a fortune.  

Airport Charles de Gaulle (CDG) 

At  CDG's Customs and Immigration point, expect some basic questions like length of stay, hotel details etc. If they are rude, which is more likely expected from Parisiens, my never-failing solution is to simply smile and greet them with a "Bonjour!". Don't be offended by their smug nature; blame the cold or their boring job but remember, it's nothing personal. 

Transportation from Charles de Gaulle airport to your temporary residence/vice-versa

Thanks to my friend, Jill, my reliable guide during my first-ever trip to Europe/Paris, I was introduced to Parish Shuttle, a cheap airport shuttle service van, which you can choose to rent privately for a higher cost or share with other passengers. Cost for one person each way is 25^€   . Normally tourists prefer this because the chauffeurs speak English; but to cite a bad experience, I actually had used them another time for my parents' arrival and we waited for our pick-up for almost an hour! Horrible. Although there is a cheaper shuttle service, 19€ each way, Airport Paris Transfer, used by a friend and he had no complaints.

Now, I prefer to line up at the airport's official taxi stand which costs approximately45€ ( with a 3€  tip) to reach my place in Paris(south). Do not go with the unregistered taxis whose drivers  wait by the exit doors to propose a 'special' deal. As what happened to a couple I know, the ride was not metered and they were charged an absurd fare per person!

A more frugal and adventurous option is to take the RER B subway train from your arrival terminal (either 2 or 3) which will get you to any part of the city. The price of an RER ticket from the CDG airport  to Paris (and vice-versa) is 8.50€  .   Make sure you grab a metro map (free) which you can ask from the representative at the metro ticket booth. You can pay by card when purchasing RER and metro tickets. Take note that the RER--crosses Paris to the suburbs-- and metro trains --only within the city--are entirely different and thus, have their own tickets. A single metro ticket is 1.60€   and for a set of 10 tickets (un carnet), it's 11.60€.

Lodging

 Always asked by many vacationers--which hotel is affordable and nicely located? My recommendation is to steer clear of the predictable hotel scene and try out a French apartment! There are great sites that rent out well-equipped flats for a short period in the district of your choice. Homelidays is a vacation site we used for apartment hunting in Corsica and Tuscany and they have equally great options in Paris. With apartments,  its rates are inexpensive, plus, you have the chance to feel like a local,  experiencing a day-to-day life in their quarters!

If you prefer a more hassle-free nook, then you can check out hotels in the areas which in my opinion are the coziest arrondissements: 3rd and 4th -Le Marais for an artsy flavor,  5th and 6th- Latin Quarter where every place is walkable, and 11th and 12th-Place de la Bastille.

Getting Around

Unless you are with people who have trouble walking, I highly suggest that you put on your comfiest flats/sneakers and roam around the city on your feet! Especially after those foie gras and cheese-filled meals, it is the only way to get you feeling less guilty about the calories and to truly discover your way around Paris even if that means getting lost. Generally the streets of Paris are safe but at night, don't think you can carelessly walk through 18th,19th and 20th arrondissements without a 'local' to guide you.

If you don't wish to move those buns, try to cruise through the city's monuments via boat, Batobus, a hop-on hop-off service running from February to November. I also booked my parents on l’Open Paris tour which is the same concept but on an open top deck bus with several routes to choose from. For Batobus the adult rates for passes are: one-day(12€) , 2-day(16€)  and  5-day(19€)  while L'Open Paris tour charges 29€ for a day and 39€ for 2 days.

                                               commute along the Seine river

As for taxis, it is not like New York wherein you spot them yellow boxes every minute. Normally you call for a taxi via Taxi Bleus by dialing 0891701010*. They are operational 24 hours a day.

 Metros are the most convenient for me. They are open as early as 5:30 am until 12:30am weekdays and 1:30am during weekends. Important: there are random checks in the metro so never throw away your tickets unless you have completely exited the station.

Velib is a popular alternative to getting around the city without the hassle of renting a bicycle and storing it. These are generic bikes with its own magnetized pods stationed in almost every avenue of Paris. The idea is to borrow a bike which is possible by registering your credit card onsite and when done, find an available pod for its safekeeping. To use it for a day, it costs 1€  and for 7 days, it is 5€ . Talk about a great initiative to combat car pollution!

                                             Velib bikes and its 'home' pods

Don't be Fooled!

I know you are a tourist but try not to be spotted and fooled like one.

People may approach you in the middle of your monument-gazing asking if you speak English. Say "No" and walk past them. If you pause and try to help, they will also try to get you to take out your wallet and trap you. Before as I was walking to work at a very decent neighborhood, a guy stopped me and picked a ring from the floor asking if it were mine. I quickly walked away and snubbed him. Five seconds later, I hear the man performing the same stunt on the person behind me--unbelievable!

           view of the Eiffel tower from the 15th district, former workplace


Do not get sucked into those trinket shops selling the same tourist souvenirs in every corner of the street. Most products are MADE IN CHINA or elsewhere. If you want authentic French gifts to bring home, go to specialized shops!

Avoid going to the cafes or brasseries which are a few meters away from an important monument or site because you will be paying the price for your order + the view to go with it as well. And let's not forget the quality of food which is nowhere near its price. Don't be afraid to walk further and explore the streets which don't look too busy.

                                                  Chez Plumeau at Montmarte

To land in a good bistrot or restaurant, you must do your research. Ask friends, locals or go online and read comments of diners; that way, you are prepared to order the right dish and wine within your spending means.

           

Street food equals divine crepe! Hey, that isn't bad at all! To see that it is freshly done,  choose a stall which has it prepared before you and as a plus, you get a whiff of some heavenly butter! Another cheap alternative are the bakeries (boulangerie) selling delicious French pastries like croissant( a must-try!!), pain au raisins (raisin bun) and pain au chocolat (croissant bread crust with chocolate); for lunch, they have fresh sandwiches (3,50-4€ each sometimes including a drink), using of course their baked, straight-from-the-oven baguettes, ranging from a club to tuna. Paul is a reputable bakery found everywhere in France and they also have quaint tea rooms if you wish to be seated.

                                        a neighborhood bakery (boulangerie)

For now, I am going to stop here (activities in Paris will be reserved for another entry). These tips should suffice for a Parisien 'virgin' vacationing in the city of Light. Let me end by stating that the FIRST time is always the best and most memorable experience so enjoy every mistake, unintended luck and the sweet romance!